Back to Mumbai Jan 12 – Jan 17

 

Back in Mumbai at my cousin’s place in Bandra West. I spend my final days relaxing with family and friends. Mumbai feels like a home away from home.

Crows in Bandra West, Mumbai – January 15, 2012

Ashwini, my “sister-in-law” (really my cousin’s wife), spotted these crows from her kitchen window in Bandra West – neighborhood in Mumbai that’s home to many Bollywood stars. Ashwini has quite an artistic eye. Recognizing what a beautiful picture the crows would make, she urged me to come quietly out to the terrace to capture the moment.

Bandra West Crows 2012

My cousin Sachin, a Bollywood screenwriter and director, shared a beautiful story about the passing of his father (my mother’s brother). He died over 10 years ago. In Maharashtra, India, when a family member passes away, family and friends come to the house on the 13th day to pay their final respects — on the last day of mourning. The family takes a plate filled with their deceased relative’s favorite meal, and leave it outside for the crows to eat. It is said that the deceased comes in the form of the crow to eat the food. Once the crow has eaten, everyone else may begin to eat.

On the 13th day after my uncle passed away, a plate of food was taken to the roof of their family home by my aunt and the younger son, Sumit. Crows sat on the ledge of the roof top, but did not touch the fresh plate of food. They sat their for what felt like ages, and were bewildered at the sight of crows ignoring food. The family’s housekeeper asked Sachin, the eldest son, to please take the plate of food to the roof, and personally offer it to the crows. As Sachin lays down the plate, and looks at the crows, one of the crows appears to give him a nod. The crow then swoops in to eat the food, and the others follow. My uncle always had a special relationship with his eldest son, Sachin. Old traditions are performed, guided by beliefs passed on from one generation to the next. We all carry different degrees of faith within us. Some more than others. This story touched our family’s hearts, and made us all want to believe that Sachin and Sumit’s father’s soul came in the form of a crow that day to say his last good-byes.

Inspired by the photograph I took, and Sachin’s story, I recently drew the above picture with markers and pastels.

Mojitos at Sachin and Ashwini’s place, Bandra West, Mumbai

This photograph is not quite in chronological order, but I think a nice way to end the memory of a beautiful trip back to India. I remember speaking with Ashwini on the phone to let her know I was minutes away from reaching their home. As I walked in, I received a healthy dose of Indian hospitality at its best. Sachin and Ashwini cheered my return with lovely mojitos along with some savory snacks before Ash and I hit the salon for an afternoon of pampering. Greeting your guests and relatives with tasty delights when they visit is a custom in India. As I visited various cousins and aunts, they made sure my tummy was constantly filled beyond capacity with all of my favorite foods; whether it was my aunt cooking a classic Goan Saraswat Brahmin meal of spicy fish fry with a kokum-coconut curry on rice, with countless veggie dishes; or my cousin, Sangeeta, taking me out to her country club for cucumber chutney sandwiches (an Indian twist to an English tradition) paired with a delicious falooda shake; or simply the ever so classic and constant cup of chai – food is the currency of love in India. It is how Indians openly express their love for you, and boy do I feel loved when I visit India.

Life is good…

Agonda Beach, Goa Jan 8 – Jan 12

Holy Cow! Agonda Beach, Goa – January 9, 2012

Goa’s lasting impression upon me has always been the cows sunbathing on the beach. These cows truly are citizens of the beach, or perhaps a regal caste of beach bums? They saunter onto the beach in the mornings, and find their perfect spot on the sandy beach to soak up the sun.

Cow striking a pose on Agonda Beach, Goa – January 9, 2012

As I was taking a picture of the other cows, this one stood up and quietly walked over to me. It was as if he was saying, “Hey, why aren’t you taking a picture of me?”  Or perhaps it’s one of my ancestors (reincarnated) trying to say, “Hello”. Anything’s possible, and everyone needs their time in front of the camera :).

H2O Agonda

This is our beautiful hotel on the beach – H2O Agonda – street entrance. A series of beautiful breazy beach shacks that are built up in October, after the monsoon rains have passed — when the tourist season begins. Only to be torn down at the end of the season in April when it’s way too hot, and in preparation for the soon approaching monsoon rains.

Our heavenly shack on the beach – January 9, 2012

H2O Agonda beach-side view. There is nothing more calming and relaxing than waking up and falling asleep to the sound of crashing waves on the beach. We slept with our doors open, and brightly colored curtains swaying in the wind. Goa’s a place where it’s quite easy to be lazy. You can rent a scooter for about 200 rupees/day (at the time, the equivalent to $4.00/day). We hopped on scooters and drove off onto narrow coconut tree-lined roads, passed over quaint little bridges to discover secluded beaches along the Indian Ocean. Something about riding a scooter with the wind blowing in your hair under the backdrop of a modest tropical town is incredibly liberating. Makes you feel so alive. Wish I had my camera to capture the moment, and share the views with you.

Evening stroll on the beach – January 10, 2012

An evening stroll along the beach…

Housekeeping at H2O Agonda

The housekeepers at H2O Agonda wear beautiful bright green colored saris with blue plaid aprons as their uniforms. They are a beautiful vision against the neutral sand.

H2O Housekeeping, 2012

Inspired by the H2O housekeeping ladies… A beautiful sight

Sunset on Agonda Beach, Goa – January 10, 2012

A lovely sunset on the Indian Ocean at Agonda Beach. Agonda Beach is in South Goa. The beaches are clean, quiet and not as crowded in comparison to North Goa, which is known for its moon party raves on their beaches.

Cow Bouncer Guarding La Dolce Vita – January 10, 2012

Oh so Goa! Here’s a cow acting as the bouncer to our favorite Italian restaurant in Agonda – La Dolce Vita. Agonda, is filled with European tourists escaping the winter months back home. In fact, while in Agonda, I was the only Indian tourist there. After a day in this small beach town, everyone knew me by name. La Dolce Vita is a restaurant owned by Italians who fell in love with Agonda, and decided they didn’t want to leave. They taught their local cooks how to prepare genuine Italian meals. It was the only place on the trip where I was able to have an authentic cappuccino (verses the ubiquitous instant Nescafe or traditional chai). The pastas were unbelievable! As much as I love Indian food, it’s a nice change after eating spicy Indian food 3 times a day for 2-1/2 weeks.

Making friends with the Italians – January 10, 2012

My favorite part of Goa is making friends with other travelers. During our stay, Agonda was filled with Europeans. My friend, Simona, an Italian who lives in Paris, comes to Agonda every year. Sam and I met up with Simona in Agonda, and through her, we made friends with many other Europeans. We spent the day traveling to a secluded beach, via scooters 45 mins away from Agonda, and then met up for dinner. Here we are eating dinner at La Dolce Vita with our new Italian friends. They are the ones who introduced us to this lovely restaurant and its owners.

Fire Show at Sandy Feet

In the evenings we move on to Sandy Feet. Another set of beach shacks with an outdoor restaurant and bar under a thatched roof on the sand. Drinks and food are cheap, delicious and fresh. Just be patient, because it can take 2 hours for your dinner to arrive after you order it. It’s part of the Goan slow-paced lifestyle. One of the multi-talented bartenders puts on an impressive fire show for us at night. Scary with walls and roof made out of straw. The owner must really trust his skills.

Sick in bed for the day – January 10, 2012

Hazards of traveling through developing countries… I’m spending the day sick in bed. Not sure if it was from accidentally swallowing the ocean water while swimming, and being hit by a sneaky wave when coming up for air, or if it’s just a dose of traveler’s sickness. My stomach isn’t use to day-in-day-out of spicy food, regardless of how delicious it might be. All I know is that I received a complimentary cleanse from the travel gods, which I’m sure a Hollywood actress or two would gladly pay big bucks for.

H2O Agonda Boys – January 12, 2012

Five pounds lighter. It’s time to say good-bye. The guys at H2O Agonda were so incredibly nice. Everyone in Goa is super sweet, kind and relaxed. The hospitality feels like home, and there’s a sense of innocence in the people here that’s warming. Housekeeping ladies or “Aunties” as I liked to respectfully call them, were particularly kind — nursing me back to good health while I was ill the day before. Here we are on our last day taking our farewell pictures (this obviously isn’t the housekeeping aunties).

Leaving H2O Agonda – January 12, 2012

How strong are these guys?! There goes our bags. It’s time for me to head back to Mumbai, and then back home. As much fun as I been having, I have to admit that I’m getting home sick. I’m looking forward to relaxing in Mumbai with friends and family before heading back to the States.

Ahhh Munnar! Tea and Spice Plantations Jan 6 – Jan 8 2012

Arriving in Munnar on Friday evening….

Arriving in Munnar Friday evening – January 6, 2012

Workers are making their way home after a long day…. Tea shrubs are everywhere. The air is so fresh and clean.

Rolling tea shrubs – January 6, 2012

The geography changes into a landscape of rolling teas shrubs and countless shades of green.

First glimpse at Munnar – January 6, 2012

As we’re driving through Munnar and getting closer to our hotel, we catch our first glimpse of the sun setting over mountains of tea plantations.

Morning view from Blackberry Hills Resort and Spa

This is a view from the great big picture window in our villa at Blackberry Hills Resort and Spa in Munnar.

Neck deep in tea! January 7, 2012

Munnar is a never ending rolling tapestry of quilted green patches of tea sewn together into the rich brown earth. Its beauty is beyond words. I now know what my mother was trying to describe. Sam and I have been friends since my first days in advertising. Both of us share a love for traveling, art, people and shopping. So when she heard my sister and I were traveling to India, she couldn’t resist joining us. Sadly, my sister, Priya had to head back to the states, and is in flight while we play like children in the tea shrubs. We are completely intoxicated by the beauty that literally envelopes us.

A lesson in tea – January 7, 2012

Our tour guide teaches us about the different processes tea goes through in its transformation from freshly picked tea leaves to tea. Growing up, his parents worked on the tea plantations during the day, and cultivated their own vegetables during their free time to sell in the local markets on the weekends. When I asked what people do during their free time, he replied, “There’s no free time.” I was speechless, and felt guilty for asking. Our young tour guide spoke in perfect English. We were in complete awe when we discovered that he is self-taught! The people here are truly remarkable.

Crushing tea leaves – January 7, 2012

Tea passes through a series of machines as the leaves are crushed and comes out as tea grains in the end.

Man carrying wood – January 7, 2012

As we walk through the tea plantations, we get to see a slice of everyday life on the plantation.

Village life in Munnar – January 7, 2012

Along side a dam, we found a little outdoor market for locals. Cows are like citizens in the town. Here’s one taking a nice afternoon stroll.

Communist rally – January 7, 2012

These friendly young boys were on a run promoting an upcoming communist conference. Communism looks a bit different than the old gloomy Russian images I grew up with in the 80s.

Political Conference in Munnar – January 7, 2012

Munnar’s all decked out in red flags, gearing up to host a communist conference. It reminds me of artist, Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s Gates Exhibit in Central Park  in 2005.

Hindu Temple, Munnar – January 7, 2012

Temples in Kerala are full of color and animated rounded deities. Here’s a beautiful temple in Munnar.

Hindu Temple, Munnar – January 7, 2012

Beautiful vivid carvings in Munnar’s Hindu Temple.

India’s version of a bodega, Munnar – January 7, 2012

Our tour guide points out this father and son shop as one of the most successful stores in Munnar. Goods packed and stacked, it’s an example of India’s own version of a bodega — from eggs to magazines, and everything in between.

Woman and bananas – January 7, 2012

I turned around and noticed this woman’s beautiful green and blue sari complimented the green bananas. I couldn’t resist asking if I could take her picture. She gave me a gracious Indian head nod, signaling, “yes!”

Hindu Sadhu in Munnar – January 7, 2012

I believe this man is a Sadhu, a wondering Hindu monk. His orange lungi and markings across his foreword look similar to the Sadhus I’ve seen years ago in Pushkar (Rajasthan).

Daddy’s little girl – January 7, 2012

This little girl was just so cute. Her parents were selling goods along the sidewalk when we spotted her. I think we frightened her with our hellos.  She quickly went to hug her daddy. Definitely daddy’s little girl. Look at those big brown eyes.

Back at Blackberry Hills Resort

Back at Blackberry Hills for a little Indian vino while we catch the sunset. The property is filled with trails filled with fragrant spices and plants like cardamon and vetiver.

Sunset at Blackberry Hills – January 7, 2012

Painted skies at sunset…

Full Moon at Blackberry Hills – January 7, 2012

A beautiful full moon competes with the stunning sunset until the sun disappears behind the mountains.

Ayurvedic Massage – January 7, 2012

Kerala is famous for their Ayurveda spas and medicine. The evening is topped off with Ayurvedic massages. Medicated oil is placed into the brass bowl and steadily pours into a gentle stream on the third eye, taking you to a very calming, nearly outer body experience.

The road to Munnar Jan 6 2012

We’re back on the road, taking a six-hour car drive up into the mountains of Munnar — Home to Kerala’s tea and spice plantations.

Woman watering garden – January 6, 2012

On our way to Munnar, we stop at a palace just outside of Cochin. Here is a local woman watering the gardens.

Sandals off sign – January 6, 2012

It is customary when entering an Indian household, to take off your shoes. This seems to apply to old palaces that have turned into museums. I love this sign because the bubbly scripture illustrates the rounded  rolling sounds in Kerala’s official language, Malayalam, and the rounded smiling faces in Kerala.

Children on a school trip – January 6, 2012

Photography isn’t allowed in the palace, so I find even more interesting subjects to take pictures of. What a bunch of friendly school kids! More smiling rounded faces :).

Billboard culture in Kerala – January 6, 2012

Traveling through India, colorful billboards are everywhere. In Kerala, you get a sense of their ideal of beauty for men from this ad for a hair growth product. Another example of how popular  the moustache is here.

The road from Cochin to Munnar is filled with Catholic Churches. All different in architecture and color. If it wasn’t for the maniacal, but safe driving of our driver, Jithin, I would have taken more shots. Here are just a few I sneaked in as we were swerving past cars and trucks, and hugging curves on narrow winding roads — on a mission to get to Munnar before the sun disappeared.

Decorated Tata truck – January 6, 2012

Driving up the narrow single lane mountain, we encountered my favorite vehicle in India (next to the Rickshaws) — The artfully decorated Tata trucks! They all seem to be originally painted with their own designs. This one had workers loading the truck heavy timber.

Close up of mural on Tata truck – January 6, 2012

Here’s a close up of the same Tata truck. You can see the beautifully painted tiger on the truck. Now imagine a country filled with individually painted trucks roaming the highways carrying goods from city-to-city. Bright colors and art is visible in everyday life. Art is very much an expression in every level of society in India. A true fan of the Tata truck, I’ve been searching for years for a toy version. I’m envisioning something similar in construction to the Hess truck I had when I was a child. Yes, it’s true, I was a bit of a tomboy in my younger years.  Anyway, I’m still looking. I can’t understand why no one has capitalized on this glorious truck!

Dream Land Spice Park – January 6, 2012

As we drive up the mountain, getting closer to Munnar, the landscape begins to change. We break up the 5-hour drive with a visit to Dream Land Spice Park. Kerala’s own take on an amusement park, complete with elephant and camel rides, and educational hikes about the spices and other vegetation in the area. That’s pepper on the lower left and who knew that pineapple sprouts up on a pedestal like royalty? No wonder it wears a crown!

Two little boys – January 6, 2012

These two boys live in a bright white washed blue home in front of Dream Land Spice Park. The cutest little things were having fun playing with what looks like a big banana tree leaf/branch.

Happiness with a leaf – January 6, 2012

The home and the children… As beautiful as they are modest. Happiness sometimes just lies in simplicity.

Munnar road sign – January 6, 2012

Yay! We’re almost there. My mom has been telling me that Munnar is breath-taking ever since she visited a few years ago. I’m so excited to finally see for myself why she fell in love with its beauty.

Sangeeta and Zach’s Wedding in Cochin Jan 5 2012

A trip to India isn’t complete without experiencing an Indian wedding. This time I get to attend my first Catholic Indian wedding. Guests from US, India, Kuwait, Poland, Ireland and other parts of the world are gathering at the Infant Jesus Church for Sangy (Sangeeta) and Zach’s wedding. A beautiful morning for a wedding.

Flower girls – January 5, 2012 

Twin power! Flower girls lead the wedding procession for this Catholic Indian wedding.

Oops! Flower spill – January 5, 2012

Whoops! A little flower fumble livens up the wedding procession…

Father and blushing bride – January 5, 2012

I don’t think I’ve ever seen Sangy so happy. She is our glowing bride in true Keralan style – biggest smile ever!

The Kiss – January 5, 2012

The KISS!! And it’s official! Sangy and Zach met at work in an ad agency in NYC. I remember Sangy telling me a few years ago, how this shy colleague kept showing up by her desk. Now I get to see Zach kiss his beautiful bride. Incidentally, the priest is from Kansas and happens to live in Cochin. Oh what small global world we live in.

Traditional Keralan dancers and drummers – January 5, 2012

After attending mass, we head to the Le Meridian Hotel for a lunch reception where we’re greeted by the booming sound of traditional Keralan drummers and dancers. The music and dancers are fierce. A nice taste of what’s planned for the evening reception.

Classic Kathakali Dancers – January 5, 2012

True to the reputation of Indian weddings, the evening reception is filled with dancing. Here are Kerala’s classic Kathakali dancers. It’s a dance form that originated over 500 years ago that combines drama, dance, music and ritual. The dancers are wearing the traditional Kerala state sari (white and gold).

Bollywood dancing – January 5, 2012

The night heats up with Bollywood dancing.

Traditional dance – January 5, 2012

More traditional dances filled with colorful costumes.

A dance with the bride and groom – January 5, 2012

The bride and groom’s first dance.

Everyone on the dance floor – January 5, 2012

The night topped off with a little Bollywood dancing for everyone.

Sight-seeing in Fort Cochi, Kerala Jan 4 2012

Spices in Cochin, Kerala – January 4, 2012

Continuing north along the western coast, Cochin is about 2 hours from Alleppey’s backwaters, situated on the Arabian Sea. Drawing spice traders for over 600 years, Cochin was colonized by the Portuguese and then by the Dutch and British. Walking through the fort area, you can see the Portuguese influence in the colonial-era mansions and Catholic Churches.

Jumbo prawn in Cochin, Kerala – January 4, 2012

Can you believe how big this prawn is? Cochin is famous for its fisherman nets and bountiful fish captured from the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean. We get to literally hand-pick our fresh fish before sitting down for lunch. Doesn’t he have the loveliest blue – beige shell? Hellooo lunch!

Lunch in Fort Cochin – January 4, 2012

I think we ate our way through India. Eyes always bigger than our stomachs, we can’t help but order up a storm. The hand-picked fish was incredibly flavorful. We at king fish prepared in a coconut based curry, with Manchurian cauliflower (Indian Chinese), our lovely chili jumbo prawn, and paratha. Paratha is the most delicious bread in Kerala. Light, flaky and slightly chewy — it was my favorite bread to order. YUM!

Mailing our goodies – January 4, 2012

Ready to shop, but aware of the lack of space in our bags (and the constant weight overage fees we pay every time we take an internal flight), we have Jithin, our driver, take us to the local post office to see how we can mail all of our purchases from New Delhi. The people at the post office send us around the corner to a lovely little dusty road lined up with tiny shops selling jewelry, clothing, pillow cases and other trinkets. Right in front of us, we watch a woman sew a muslin sack. Another woman then hand-stitches the sack closed, and seals it by melting red wax along the seams.  I am so in love  and romanticized with how personalized, and hands-on this process is (although highly inefficient – takes 45 mins). Taking pictures of the lovely Muslim tailor and Hindu seamstress at work in their traditional clothing, the tailor laughs. This is such a novelty for me, but I imagine she thinks we’re funny, and can’t understand why we’re so intrigued and enamoured by their daily work. Once our packages are done, we walk them back to the post office, weigh them and off they go on a long and slow journey to NYC.

Jew Town, Cochin – January 4, 2012

Jew Town in Cochin is a touristy, but charming area filled with all sorts of shops reflecting Cochin’s long history with the spice trade. At one point, Cochin attracted numerous Jewish exiles seeking refuge. Most of the families left for Israel after WWII. We were told that only 7 Jewish families remain in Cochin.

Fabrics and antiques in Jew Town, Cochin – January 4, 2012

Textiles and antiques. The cow is a wood carving of Lord Shiva’s Nandi (bullock) from the 1920s. So cute, he reminds me of the photograph I took in Mumbai of the beggar’s cow.

Ginger factory in Cochin – January 4, 2012

Curious where this entrance led to, we walked through the arch to find a large beautiful courtyard with white washed rustic walls. The courtyard is a factory used to dry ginger. A worker dressed in a bright orange lungi washed himself with water drawn from a well within.

Handing out school supplies in Cochin – January 4, 2012

Handing out school supplies and Hershey Kisses to children in Cochin. Smiles were precious.

Chinese fishing nets in Fort Cochin – January 4, 2012

Chinese fishing nets were oringinally brought from the court of the Chinese emperor, Kublai Khan to Cochin. We saw them being used to catch squid.

Fishermen tossing squid from nets to buckets – January 04, 2012

Fishermen piled the squid they just drew in from the Chinese fishermen nets into buckets. The squid’s skin had the most beautiful designs.

Sailing through the backwaters in Alleppey, Kerala Jan 3 2012 – Jan 4 2012

Houseboat on backwaters in Alleyppey – January 3, 2012

We drive up 4 hours north along the western coast from Kovalam’s beautiful beaches to Alleppey, where we embark on our very own private houseboat tour of the backwaters. They call Kerala, “God’s Own Country”. We’re beginning to see why…

Cruising along Kerala’s backwaters – January 3, 2012

We cruise through the backwaters in a 2 bedroom, 2 full bath houseboat. It’s fully equipped with a kitchen and chef trained in the traditional local cuisine. Our crew of two men are dressed in long fabric sarongs known as lungis and groomed with the omnipresent South Indian moustaches.

Painting on the houseboat – January 3, 2012

So tranquil and picturesque, I’m calm, yet full of inspiration. I can’t resist bouncing back and forth from taking pictures and painting. Absorbing the beauty around me.

Dinner on the Houseboat – January 3, 2012

The dinner our chef made on the houseboat tasted just like my grandmother’s cooking. Fish-fry, dahl and rice, greenbeans, cabbage with coconut and papadom. So delicious.

School kids taking a long tail boat home – January 3, 2012

As we sail through the backwaters, we observe everyday life for those who live on its banks. School kids decked out in their uniforms and backpacks, pile into a long tail boat as they travel back home after a day of lessons.

Brothers bike riding home in Alleppey – January 3, 2012

Brothers bike riding along the banks of the backwaters…

Mini boat ride through backwaters – January 3, 2012

Our houseboat docks as we transfer into a little boat. A local takes us for a more intimate look at life along the backwaters.

Rowing through narrow backwaters – January 3, 2012

Rowing through the backwaters, it almost feels cavernous with the lush vegetation surrounding us, creating a canopy.

Woman washing clothes – January 3, 2012

You can sense the warmth of this woman from her smile as she graciously allows us to take a picture of her washing clothes along the banks of the backwaters.

Rowing past docked houseboats – January 3, 2012

Little girl watching – January 3, 2012

Little girl all decked out with earrings, necklace, bindi, and a beautiful red dress. She looked like a little doll.

Little boy outside of his home – January 3, 2012

Even though this picture came out blurry as the sun was setting and we rowed past, I had to include it. He was just such a darling. The sweetest little thing posed for us and had the most innocent smile. Simply precious.

Rowing back to the houseboat as the sunsets – January 3, 2012

We make our way back to our houseboat for a glass of wine and then sleep in our rooms as the boat quietly rests on the edge of the backwaters.

Cow in front of temple in Alleppey – January 4, 2012

Before heading off for Cochin, we stop to visit a Hindu temple. This stone cow sat in front, facing the temple. The layered brass bells with red and yellow thread, and flowers reflect the importance placed on this sacred animal. The cow is honored for all that it gives: Milk, curd and ghee (refined butter) to nourish families, and dung used for fuel. In early centuries AD, killing a cow was considered as severe as killing a Brahman.

Exploring Kerala – Kovalam Jan 1 2012 – Jan 2 2012

New Year’s day, we leave New Delhi, for the southern state of Kerala via IndiGo Airlines. Flying IndiGo airlines is like a time machine trip into the old glamorous Pan Am days. Sadly, I was politely told to put my camera away on flight, and wasn’t able to take my own photographs of these lovely airline hostesses, but I found this picture on the internet to illustrate the polished hair bob wigs (yes, they wear wigs!), red lipstick and the sexy retro-chic uniforms. The IndiGo stewardesses walk off the airplanes into the airport with a coordinated strut as they roll their tiny carry-ons behind them. Takes me back to the days when women aspired to be a chic and well-traveled airline stewardess. Almost how young girls may view fashion models today.

IndiGo sandwich carton, en route to Kerala from Delhi – January 1, 2012

I loved everything about this airlines: the discount they gave me for my extra 20 kilo in excess baggage weight charges (I paid 1500 rps/$30 instead of 2000 rps/$40), the  spacious and cushy seats,  the ever so stylish and courteous crew, and the clever airplane cartons my delicious cucumber, tomato, chutney sandwich came in. So delicious, I ate it before I thought to take a picture. Go IndiGo!! Wish you flew in the US.

2012 in Kerala

Our first days of the new year are spent in the beautiful state of Kerala. Boasting a literacy rate of 99%, Kerala is India’s most educated state. It is famous for it’s back waters, Ayurvedic treatments,  tea & spice plantations and yoga. The people in this state are full of warm smiling faces.

Retro Hindustan Ambassador car on bridge over back waters – January 2, 2012

We start off on the southern end of the state in Kovalam… The retro Hindustan Ambassador cars still look as they did when they were first launched in 1958. They gift us with a daily dose of nostalgia and a visual of what India looked like when my parents were kids.

Banana Truck, Kovalam, Kerala – January 2, 2012

India has some of the cutest trucks that just make me giggle out loud. I mean, my American “big car trained eye” can’t help but take a double take at this banana truck. I swear it looks like it was made by Lego. I love the proportions and the bright yellow color.

Keralan Moustaches – January 2, 2012

All of the men in Kerala sport the same moustache. It was uncanny. Every time we asked them why they wear moustaches, the universal reply with a smile and Indian head nod was, “Because that’s what the ladies like!”. Classic! I’m digging our boat driver’s red shirt. Maybe I can convince those Williamsburg boys to start wearing moustaches and fitted retro rugby shirts next summer.

Keralan woman near market – January 2, 2012

We asked our tour guide to take us to the markets where the locals shop, and what we encountered was a lovely taste of authentic Keralan life. Here’s a woman standing near a bus stop. I love the old dusty bicycle. India is a country that values fixing old things and lengthening their life rather than discarding for new and shiny.

Little pop up store stalls – January 2, 2012

Local market in Kerala – January 2, 2012

Smiles every where (even the man in the blurred background is flashing his pearly whites). This man was so happy to see us. He’s dressed in a lungi, a fabric sarong commonly worn by men in Kerala. The local market is filled with colorful every day products stacked, creating a bit of eye candy for us.

Local taking picture of Sam in market with his mobile phone – January 2, 2012

Clearly the intrigue was on both sides. Here’s a local Keralan taking a picture of Sam in the market with his mobile phone. Right back at you, babe! Sam’s fair skin gives her movie star status in India (especially in non-touristy places). Notice the ubiquitous moustache.

Kids in school in Kerala – January 2, 2012

Walking through the market, we found ourselves in front of a school. The kids broke out into laughter when they saw us with our cameras. Such joyous faces and the most adorable plaid uniforms. The teacher actually came out smacking a ruler against her hand to see what the commotion was all about. A bit camera-shy, she scooted back into the school-house before I could capture her.

Sunset in Kovalam, Kerala – January 2, 2012

We’re back in our beach town in Kovalam to catch an Ayurvedic massage performed with medicated oils, and then watch the sunset on the mysterious Arabian Sea.

Jewelry and deities store in Kovalam – January 2, 2012

Kovalam is a hilly beach town with stores and Ayurvedic massage spas lined up along a steep winding, narrow road. After dinner, we waunder into a little shop filled with jewelry and carvings of Hindu gods. Krishna, the shop keeper (who is named after the Hindu god known for playfully breaking the rules and showing generosity of his love), gives us a lesson on Hindu deities. I find an antique make-up holder made out of brass. Too heavy to bring back home, but exquisite. Each compartment opens up like a flower petal.

The road to the Taj Mahal – Delhi/Agra Dec 29 2011 – Dec 31 2012

The Lotus Temple, Baha’i House of Worship, New Delhi – December 30, 2011

We’re working our way towards the Taj Mahal in Agra, but need to stop in New Delhi first since it’s the closest city with an airport. Our free day in Delhi is spent with a touch of sight-seeing, followed by a whole lot of shopping. The Baha’i House of Worship, often called, The Lotus Temple, is a true architectural masterpiece with nine marble petals. Photography is forbidden inside. The interior is full of natural light, and the structure creates a magical echo that seems to linger forever. As birds swirl around the interior wall, the temple is filled with the continuous echo of their fluttering wings. Close your eyes, and it feels like the whispers of angels encouraging us to disappear into mediation. A truly heavenly place welcoming people of all religions to worship here.

Pillows at Good Earth, New Delhi – December 30, 2011

For two years I’ve been searching for the perfect pillows for my couch. I thought I would find a terrific set during my trip to Thailand last year. Instead, I found many beautiful trinkets, but no pillows to add the splash of color I wanted for my grey tufted couch. Last spring while strolling through the streets of my West Village neighborhood, bright beautiful silk pillows on an outside bench drew me into a new restaurant – The Tea Set on West 12th. I ran in having to know where they found these gorgeous pillows. The French owner, Jacques, said, “In your country!” During his last trip to Mumbai, he found them at the Indian home decor store, Good Earth. Needless to say, Good Earth was high on the must-see store list. We went absolutely crazy in this store! It’s filled with the perfect combination of lifestyle products steeped in casual luxury and relaxed glamour. Just what I was looking for! I over indulged, and bought pillows for Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter, for both the living room and the bedroom. The damage for the day – an entire suitcase filled with textiles from a handful of stores in Delhi. Oy! I still have 2-1/2 weeks of traveling ahead of me!

New Year’s Eve, and we’re off to see the Taj Mahal! The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays for prayers. So the only day we could take our day trip with our jam-packed schedule, was on New Year’s Eve.

Taj Mahal, Agra – December 31, 2011

Second time at the Taj Mahal, and it still is breath-taking. I’m overwhelmed by the magnitude of Shah Jahan’s expression of love for his wife Mumtaz Mahal. Grief stricken after her death, he built the Taj Mahal in her memory. It’s filled with beautiful design traditions of Persian and early Mughal architecture.

Taj Majal through my eyes – “Love at First Sight” watercolor by Pallavi Wagle

Inspired by countless visitors coming from all corners of the country, dressed in their region’s traditional clothing. Many of whom were on their honeymoons.

Inlays on the Taj Mahal – December 31, 2011

Close ups of the beautiful artistry on the Taj Mahal. Inlays within the marble.

Inlays and Arabic scripture, Taj Mahal, Agra – December 31, 2011

I love the colors and how the Arabic scripture becomes an element of design. Wouldn’t these designs be beautiful in textiles? I so have home decor on the brain throughout this trip.

Man in Agra outside of the Taj Mahal – December 31, 2011  

Who says you need money for style? We saw this man sitting outside of the Taj Mahal. I loved the natural, casual elegance he possessed. He’s so dapper in this electic combination. Love, love the brightly striped shirt against the multi-textured and patterned greys. He created a beautiful composition.

Red Fort, Agra – December 31, 2011

Red Fort in Agra. India’s version of a castle.

Scalloped arches at Red Fort, Agra – December 31, 2011

Another beautiful example of Moghul architecture.

Poverty outside of the Red Fort in Agra – December 31, 2011

This little girl had the saddest face when she approached us as we stepped out of the Red Fort. We motioned for her to follow us to our car. My dad had given us a ziplock bag full of school supplies he had bought from Staples for us to hand out throughout the trip. The moment we gave her a chance to pick a few supplies, the biggest smile came across her face. It made us so happy. I think it is safe to say that our fondest moments throughout the trip were seeing the smiles on children’s faces as we handed out school supplies and Hershey Kisses to them. Later after we got into the car, our tour guide told us that children come out in the early evenings, hungry and in search for food. We were heart-broken. I still feel terrible for not thinking to buy her a meal at that moment. Despite the enormous growth in India in recent years, poverty still remains a big problem.

Journey through India begins in Mumbai… Dec 28 2011

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A memorable three-week journey began with a quick stop in Mumbai to visit family and to hit some stores I found on WGSN’s Mumbai City by City Guide. We wove in and out of a sea of yellow and black rickshaws (3-wheeled taxi). Stepping out and trying to cross the streets was like a live game of Frogger. As Priya and I stood frozen trying to figure out a strategic time to cross, a kind older man wearing a light blue turban saw our struggle, and came out of the famous “Little Punjab” restaurant to help my sister and I cross the street. Hey, isn’ t it suppose to be the two of us helping the older gentleman cross the street? LOL. I forgot how helpful strangers can be in Mumbai… especially with two ABCDs (American Born and Confused Desis).

Beggar with cow in Bandra West – December 28, 2012

This ornate man is actually a beggar walking with his decorated cow. He approached us as we sat on the outside patio of a coffee shop in Bandra West. Feeling bad for the elderly man, my sister gave him some money.

Haji Ali Mosque, Mumbai – December 28, 2011

We’re on our way to visit our cousins in South Bombay. Taking a taxi over the new Bandra – Worli Sea Link cuts our travel time in 1/2.  The beautiful new suspension bridge is one of many examples of India’s massive efforts to improve its transportation infrastructure. Passing by Haji Ali is always like poetry in motion. The contrast of a muslim man praying as he gazes at the floating mosque in the Arabian Sea, seemingly oblivious to the chaotic traffic behind him.  He is the perfect illustration of what I love so much about Mumbai. A city filled with constant depictions of co-existing dichotomies.